
Having driven the 186 km from
Reykjavík to
Vík on highway one in my little, very old VW Golf, I was feeling quite happy about myself. My friend and I, accompanied by her very large dog, arrived at my great grandmothers house and were rather delighted to see that it was not
covered in ash from the recent volcanic
eruption. It is a very old house and as I was catching my breath inside I thought about how it smelled like a turf house witch for some reason reminded me of museums.
We sat down with a map and some lemonade on the
porch to search for our first expedition rout. My friend, Rakel, pointed to a spot on the map named
Þakgil which was located a little inland from where we were. I dismissed it straight away as I know from experience that Icelandic country roads can get quite
ridiculous and hard to drive. Seeing as we only had my rusty little golf this was out of the question.
About an hour later I was turning up a road marked
Þakgil. My
curiosity seemed to have gotten the best of me.
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| The view on our way to Þakgil |
The road didn't seem at all bad, though it was a little
rough in places. As we started to
climb a small mountain we realized that turning the car around would not be an option as the road was just wide enough for a single car. It wasn't too threadbare so we decided to push on and see how far we got. We reached the top of this small mountain and the view was absolutely
spectacular. On one side there was something that seemed to be a huge riverbed which was now just black sand and reminded me of this old Icelandic folklore song called Á
Sprengisandi which is about a man going through an Icelandic desert by horse in a hurry so he
doesn't get caught by evil
elves or fairies of some sort. This deserted riverbed ran between to grassy
mountains. But on the
other side of us, and where the road seemed to be leading us, was a
mountainous area colored with silhouette blues and greens. Starry eyed from all the beauty our
road trip continued.
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| Rakel and Æsa the dog outside one of the huts |
The road started to get quite a bit
hairyer from there on. Blind hills with very sharp bends on the other side were just the beginning. We had climbed to a considerable altitude and the wind was starting to shake
the car which was not helping my nerves on the rocky, winding road. I tried not to look at where the road was heading where as Rakel kept on telling me it was just going
straight in to some
weird mountaintop. When we reached this mountain top we turned a corner and as we turned this corner a very peculiar sight appeared before us. Some kind of huts had been built in to the rocks. As I pulled over and got out of the car I was almost swept off my feet, quite literally. The wind was so strong that even the dog looked a little nervous. We explored these huts and when I had come to the conclusion that the Icelandic elfes from the folk stories were not only living in rocks any more but had started to expand there living quarters and were building villages we decided to head off in to the wilde again.
Now the road started to descend in to a kind of ravine or canyon of some sort. We seemed to have travelled further up the riverbed that we had seen earlier. As the road was descending it started to get very hairy. On one side of us was a cliff
rolling down in to the canyon and on the other side there was a wall made
entirely of gravel and sand. The road didn't seem very
sturdy and the edges where crumbling slightly away and
rolling down in to the canyon. To make matters worse the road was shaped
like a Z going down and at each turn it seemed like the car was going to role off down the mountain. Between the whimpers coming from the dog in the back seat and
Rakel's gasping I tried not to think of how we were going to get back up the mountain.
When we finally reach the bottom we found
ourselves driving on the riverbed
which now
just looked
like a desert of black sand that went on for what seemed like miles. We had driven for a little while when we came across a sign that said
Þakigl. Had we seriously reached our destination point? A sandy riverbed and not even a
pick nick bench for us to eat our lunch on. We go out of the car and looked around. The road
wasn't really much of a road any more, it was more like tracks in the sand. Feeling quite
disappointed we got back in to the car but in stead of turning around I decided to keep going and see what was around this cliff in front of us that was jutting out of the mountain.
  |
| The huts in Þakgil |
As we turned the corner our disappointment
melted away. Before us was a beautiful valley with little
huts, a river and to our delight,
pick nick tables! We parked the car and got out. A few meters away stood a woman juggling and behind her there were 2 tents all set up with two guys outside sunbathing. Otherwise there was not a soul in sight. Behind us was a cave full of
pick nick tables and
barbecues I guess for when it's raining. In the mountains that surrounded us there where hundreds even
thousands of caves to be seen. We sat down and had our lunch, we felt like we were at the root of a volcano and that it could irrupt at any time, although it was unlikely seeing as it had
just irrupted a few weeks
earlier. We found out later that even though we weren't quite at the roots of the volcano we weren't that far off.
As we drove back to my great grandmothers little house by the sea we felt pretty happy of our selves and pretty happy of my little golf. When we finally got back and stumbled in to the bedroom to take a nap we realize that being a tourist in your own country can be quite exotic.